Lhotse Expedition

Trip Information

Location: Khumbu Himalaya, Nepal
Summit Elevation: 27,940 ft. (8516m)
Days: 58
Dates: April 1 - May 27, 2017
Skill Level: Advanced
Maximum Group Size: 6
Cost of Trip: $25,500 USD
Trip begins in Kathmandu, Nepal

Recent Trip Results

  • April 2015 - Dispatches
  • May 2012 - Summit
  • May 2010 - Summit

Spring 2017 expedition confirmed
We return to Mt. Lhotse via the normal west face route. Follow the news beginning in April, 2017.

OUR LHOTSE EXPEDITION FOR THE 2017 SEASON

We are very excited to return to Lhotse for our Himalayan Spring expeditions. We plan to run this trip each Spring season and are already accepting interested climbers for 2017:

The classic climbing route on the world's highest 8,000 meter summit
Top logistics provided throughout the trip from Kathmandu to mountain camps
Lhotse veteran American and Sherpa staff that have successfully led previous trips with 100% Summit Success* on the classic route of Lhotse

HIGHLIGHTS OF OUR TRIP

  • One to one climbing Sherpa to client ratio
  • The best meals prepared by our top cook staff
  • Veteran American mountain guide staff with over a decade of guiding in Nepal, to ensure seamless delivery and safety procedures
  • Communications tent with access to satellite phone and email, dispatches of the team progress on our news site
  • Emphasis is placed on providing high end logistics, staff, equipment and services to a small team of climbers
  • Single Accommodation in Kathmandu at the Yak and Yeti Hotel

Lhotse Ice Fall Crossing

TRIP DESCRIPTION

At 27,940 feet (8,156 meters), Mt. Lhotse is the worlds fourth highest peak and one of the Prized 8,000m peaks. Lhotse is the close neighbor of Chomolangma or Mother Goddess of the Earth connected by the South Col. So much history and culture has evolved around the route up Lhotse because it shares most of the route with Everest. It has become an acheivable goal for many mountaineers throughout the world. Join the Mountain Professionals Lhotse veterans for a privately organized and led expedition to the worlds most famous mountain. Our trip consists of high western staff to client ratio, 1:1 Sherpa to client ratio, and a small team mentality. We feel that this is a huge advantage in your summit chances and is backed up by our previous high percentage of summit success.

The normal route on Lhotse, in Nepal is one of the classic routes in the Himalaya. The route was first climbed in May of 1956 by a Swiss team and is accessible via the Khumbu Valley, leading to the famous Khumbu Icefall, the Western Cwm and eventually to the Lhotse Face. After leaving camp 3 on the face our team will climb the Everest South Col route stopping at the base of the Lhotse couloir and establishing a high camp 4.

The summit day is a fantastic climb up the relatively protected couloir that contains mixed ice, snow and rock the entire way to the summit. The summit day will be fixed with rope to help ensure a safe ascent and descent. While the summit day is moderately steep, it is sustained and continues to climb the entire way. Climbers reach the steep, final 50 meters of rock and snow to the summit.
The key to a successful ascent of Mt. Lhotse is patience, good organization of logistics, perseverance and little luck from the weather.

We feel that being part of a strong team on Lhotse has great advantages for reaching the summit. Our expeditions, although led by professional mountain guides, has a feeling of relaxed efficiency, with two-way communication between the staff and the team members. We feel there is a huge advantage to joining a small, highly organized group of climbers, led by our staff to manage all the on mountain logistics and risk management. This ensures that you can concentrate on climbing Lhotse and can rely on the experience of the expedition leader.

We will meet in Kathmandu, Nepal for our team organization and final preparations. We spend several days in the city to rest, visit local sights, and prepare. We will take a domestic flight to the village of Lukla and begin our 9-day hike to basecamp. Our goal is to reach the 17,000 feet basecamp feeling strong and ready to begin the climb.

Lhotse Basecamp

The route from Base Camp climbs through the Khumbu Icefall to Camp 1 at 19,000 feet. After sleeping in C1 we return to Base Camp for a rest and begin our planning for the next climb to the higher camps. We return to the upper mountain, bypassing C1 and going directly to Camp 2 at 21,000'. Our C2 location eventually becomes an advanced BC where we maintain a comfortable dome dining tent and permanent cook staff. After sleeping in C2 for several days we return to Base Camp. Our last foray up the mountain for acclimatization brings us to the Lhotse Face and we ascend to 24,000' to Camp 3. This will be our highest sleeping night in preparation for the summit push.

This is the highest quality expedition you will find for an exceptional price. All the in-country transportation, the on mountain services, food, tents, yaks, oxygen, and guides are included and are of high quality.

PROJECTED ITINERARY

Day 1: Arrive at Kathmandu Tribuvan International Airport. Our team transports to our hotel in Thamel.

Day 2: Relax and enjoy the vibrant city of Kathmandu. Some organization of personal gear and needs.

Day 3: Private team meeting and logistical/gear needs. Team dinner and celebration.

Day 4: Internal Flight to Lukla and trek to Phakding at 8,700'.

Day 5: Today we hike to the Sherpa town of Namche Bazaar. Here we visit the city and experience the people in the Sherpa Capital at 11,300'.

Day 6: Here we take another day in Namche to carefully acclimatize. We can take a museum tour or trek around the hills of this beautiful location.

Day 7: We will hike along the Dodh Kosi River and eventually make our way through the Rhododendrons to the Tengboche Monestery and on to Deboche.

Day 8: Today we hike to Dingboche at 14,000' and view the famous Ama Dablam.

Day 9: We will likely take a rest and acclimatization day here to ensure good health.

Day 10: We walk along the Mani Stones and climb to the small village of Lobuche at 16,000'.

Day 11: If weather permits we trek to the top of Kala Pattar and get stunning views of Everest, tonight we sleep in Gorak Shep at 17,000'.

Day 12: We make our way to Everest Base Camp at 17,500'.

Day 13-49: This is our climbing and summit window; we carefully pick the most stable weather and make our attempts sometime mid to late May.

Day 50-56: We have carefully planned in extra time to allow for a late weather window, rest, and pack up. We also travel back to Kathmandu.

Day 57-58: Down time in Kathmandu to celebrate and shop for gifts and enjoy our team celebration dinner.

Roped Climbing

TRIP COST INCLUDES

  • Mountain Professionals guides.
  • 1:1 Nepali Sherpa climber to client ratio.
  • Expedition permit.
  • Four nights private accommodation in the Kathmandu.
  • Full board on twin sharing basis on Trek.
  • All transportation in Nepal as per itinerary.
  • Yaks, porters, and guides to and from Base Camp.
  • Sherpa cooks, kitchen and climbing staff at BC and Camp 2; equipment allowances, daily wages, insurance, and food.
  • Carry bonus for Sherpa staff.
  • Heated and Carpeted- Dining tent, full kitchen, shower and toilet tents, chairs and tables at BC and C2; Esspresso/Coffee, comfortable BC environment and highest quality food served at Everest.
  • Imported US and European food at BC; equipment allowances, daily wages, insurance, food and lodging for Liaison Officer and Interpreter.
  • Icefall and all route fixing costs.
  • Group climbing equipment, high altitude tents, stove and fuel; high altitude food imported from the United States.
  • Two way radios and VHF BC to mountain communications; full BC satellite phone communication setup.
  • 5 bottles of oxygen and use of mask and regulator.
  • Comprehensive medical supplies and Wilderness EMT/First Responders.
  • Access to and unlimited consultations to the Himalaya Rescue Assoc. doctors in Base Camp.
  • Weather Reports.

Summit Ridge

PRICE DOES NOT INCLUDE

  • International airfare to and from Kathmandu.
  • Meals in Kathmandu, outside of team dinners before and after expedition.
  • Drinks, laundry, postage, telephone calls and all other items of personal nature.
  • Nepal visa and re-entry visa, Kathmandu airport departure tax; personal travel.
  • Personal climbing clothing and equipment.
  • Travel/Trip Cancelation and Rescue Insurance (required).
  • Staff gratuities.