Ojos del Salado Expedition

• In 2021 we launch a guided expedition to climb Ojos del Salado
• Experience the Argentina and Chilean sides of the mountain on one trip
• Great meals prepared by guide support staff
• Veteran mountain guides with over a decade of guiding on Ojos del Salado, to ensure seamless delivery and safety procedures
• Lodges in Argentina for acclimatization and Dome and Tent lodging in Chile for the climb
• Communications tent with access to satellite phone and email, dispatches of the team progress on our news site
• Emphasis is placed on providing high end logistics, staff, equipment and services to a small team of climbers
• Asados on the trip, acclimatize on the remote Argentina side via comfortable 4×4 access

Ojos is located in the Andes Range on the border of Argentina and Chile, rising 6,893m or 22,615 ft. above sea level, it is the 2nd highest mountain in South America. Mountain Professionals is planning a climb of the Ojos del Salado normal route via Chile, however we have a special program where climbers begin on the Argentina side of the mountain and utilize comfortable 4×4 access to camps in order to do acclimatization trips on the remote and wild side of the mountain prior to the summit climb on the Chilean side.

Ojos del Salado is located on the border of Argentina and Chile, it is remote adventure on a highly sought after peak. Many mountaineers looking at completing climbs of the Seven Volcanoes or other mountain objectives are now focusing on Ojos del Salado as a climbing objective and excellent South American adventure in a relatively short time frame.

Our full service expedition begins in the airport at La Rioja, Argentina. From here we travel via comfortable air conditioned 4×4 with the guide staff to Fiambala for hotel lodging and a visit to the Inca Museum. From there the group travels to Cortaderas at 3,300m / 10,820 ft. for a short hike and evening lodge. The acclimatization begins with a trek up Coquena and Pastos Largos Peak at 4100m / 13,451 ft. taking in views of the dry arid environment. The following mornings drive to Las Grutas provides incredible views of the surrounding 6,000m mountains in the area along the way. Later that day the team will climb up to Falso Morocho Peak for lodging and further acclimatization at 4100m.

The culmination of the Argentina remote acclimatization portion of the program entails an early morning climb of Bertrand Volcano 5350m / 17,552 ft. with views of Incahuasi, Pissis, and the first view of Ojos del Salado! Then it is time to cross over to Chile at the customs crossing and high plateau to Laguna Verde and Murray Camp. Here your guides will make camp with comfortable dining dome complete with table and chairs, plus member sleeping tents for the evening at an altitude of 4,300m / 14,107 ft.

One last excursion to climb Vicuna Peak at an altitude of 6,050m / 19,900 ft. sets the team members up perfectly for the following climb of the actual Ojos del Salado route that consists of a 4 day progression from the Tejos hut to the high camp with a summit climb.

Our philosophy is to approach all mountains with great care, recognizing the hazards involved in climbing high-altitude glaciated peaks. Ojos del Salado is the second highest mountain in the southern and western hemispheres, posing all the risks that come with such an impressive peak. That being said, the normal route on the mountain is accessible due to less objective hazard. The trip is strenuous in nature but accessible to a wide range of experience levels. We plan to utilize a highly experienced staff, top-notch safety and mountain equipment, and slow conservative acclimatization to minimize our risk and provide for a successful climb of Ojos del Salado.

The expedition in 2024 will be organized by Tomas Ceppi. He has in-depth experience leading expeditions to the Andes Range as well as 8,000 -meter mountains including Everest, in Nepal, and Pakistan. Our  logistics partners have worked in the expedition business for over a decade as a top logistics organizer and expedition management team. Your guides on Ojos del Salado have experience organizing multiple expeditions to mountains including trips to Manaslu, Everest, K2, Dhaulagiri, Cho Oyu, Broad Peak, Lhotse, Gasherbrum 2, and several 5000m to 7000m Himalayan mountains.

Our recommendation is for team members to have a solid mountaineering background that involves several trips to high altitude peaks ranging from 4000m to 5500m+ in elevation. Team members should be very comfortable with general mountain climbing skills and living at high camps.

The team will take sufficient time to rest and acclimatize in base camp prior to beginning a conservative climb to the higher camps.

Climbing Ojos del Salado will include long sections of switchbacks, with some short steep steps and a long traverse at 6500m with a short 4 class rock step just before the summit. The route is climbed using harnesses, helmet and general gear, protected by roping up for the final section and managed for safety by the guide staff.

Our goal… to have a safe expedition, have fun, and then to reach the summit of Ojos del Salado, the 2nd highest mountain in South America and one of the Seven Volcanoes summits.

• Day 1: Arrive to La Rioja, Argentina airport. Our staff will meet you outside and transport you to our hotel in the hotel. Team Meeting.
• Day 2: After visiting the Inka museum we will drive in ours 4×4 vehicles from Fiambala to Cortaderas, where the group will spend the night. Short trek around the area.
• Day 3: Our first ascent of the trip. To begin our acclimatazation process we will climb to the summits of Coquena and Pastos Largos, roughly a 6-hour hike. Return to the hotel. 4100 m. / 13,451 ft.
• Day 4: After breakfast we continue driving to Las Grutas hut. During the drive we will get incredible views of the Puna and the six thousand meter peaks of the area. After lunch we will hike to Falso Morocho Peak 4500 mts / 14,763 ft. Lodging in the hut or Tents & Dome Tent for dining.
• Day 5: Early morning we start climbing to the summit of the Bertrand Volcano. From here we gets amazing views of the crater, Incahuasi and Pissis volcanoes and we get the first view of Ojos del Salado. 8-hours hike. Lodging in the hut or Tents & Dome Tent. 5350 m. / 17.552 ft.
• Day 6: After breakfast we drive to Maricunga customs for the international crossing into Chile. We keep driving across the high plateaus to reach Laguna Verde and Murray camp. Dinning Dome / Altitude Tents.
• Day 7: Early in the morning, we approach the mountain with the 4×4, we start climbing Vicuña Peak 6050 m. / 19,900 ft. a 6 to 8 hour hike-. Back to our camp. Dinning Dome / Altitude Tents. .
• Day 8: Today we leave Laguna Verde, heading to the foothill of Ojos del Salado. We drive off road, gaining altitude very quickly as we cross sand flats and steep rocky terrain. After 2 hrs. we arrive at the Atacama refuge area, where we set up our base camp. Dinning Dome / Altitude Tents at the Atacama Hut 5320 m. / 17,454 ft.
• Day 9: Today, we carry some equipment and food to the Tejos Hut, following the sandy and rocky slopes. We drop off our stuff and we return back down to the base camp. -4 to 5 hours hike. This hike is part of our acclimatization in order to maximize our chances of reaching the summit. Dinning Dome / Altitude Tents.
• Days 10: Move to Tejos Hut. It is a short day, we arrive early to get hydrated, eat and rest for the summit day. Dinning Dome / Altitude Tents. 5850 m. / 19,200 ft.
• Day 11: After a 3 am start, we expect a 7 to 9-hour push to the summit. The climb starts with straightforward switchbacks and then changes to a huge traverse at 6500 mtrs. Also includes an easy climbing / scrambling step just before getting to the summit. We use harness, helmet and rope for this last part. Going down, depending the time and conditions of the group, we may stop for the night at Tejos Camp or descend directly to Atacama Base Camp. Dinning Dome / Altitude Tents.
• Days 12 and 13: Extra days allowed for bad weather or additional acclimatization needs or adjustments to the schedule by the guide staff.
• Day 14: Dismantle of camp and tents, organize gear and packing, load equipment and get the 4×4 ready to go. Then we drive back to Fiambala, where we arrive 6 hours later. Celebration dinner “Asado Criollo” at the Fiambala Hot Springs. Lodging Casona del Pino or Posada Las Cañas.
• Day 15: Transfer out to La Rioja airport. End of services.

Trip cost includes

• Mountain Professionals guides.
• Expedition permit.
• Six nights shared accommodation in towns.
• Meals throughout the Trek, Base Camp, and Mountain.
• All transportation as per itinerary with Airport transfers at La Rioja.
• Dining tent, comfortable Base Camp environment and highest quality food.
• Group climbing equipment, high altitude tents, stoves and fuel; high altitude food.
• Comprehensive medical supplies and Wilderness First Responders and medical oxygen.
• Weather Reports.
• Hot Springs and Museum Tickets.
• Team Dispatches

Price does not include

• International airfare to and from La Rioja.
• Lunches in Fiambala.
• Drinks, laundry, postage, telephone calls and all other items of personal nature.
• Personal climbing clothing and equipment.
• Early departure costs outside our planned itinerary.
• Travel/Trip Cancellation and Rescue Insurance.
• Single accommodation if requested.
• Staff gratuities.