Dates: December 1 – 15, 2020 and February 6 – 20, 2021
Maximum Group Size: 6 Clients
Cost of Trip: USD $5,000
Trip begins in La Rioja, Argentina
Our Ojos del Salado expedition for the 2020 and 2021 Season
We are very excited to announce departures to climb Ojos del Salado. We plan to run this trip multiple times each season and are already accepting interested climbers:
- One of the Seven Volcanoes climbs, the highest Volcano on each continent
- Pure adventure in Argentina and Chile, with low crowds and vehicle supported
- Ojos del Salado veteran American and Argentina staff
Let Mountain Professionals take you there
Want to learn more about climbing Ojos del Salado, the second highest mountain in South America and the highest active volcano in the world? Contact us today and we will give you all the info you need.
Highlights of our trip
- In 2020 we launch a guided expedition to climb Ojos del Salado
- Experience the Argentina and Chilean sides of the mountain on one trip
- Great meals prepared by guide support staff
- Veteran mountain guides with over a decade of guiding on Ojos del Salado, to ensure seamless delivery and safety procedures
- Lodges in Argentina for acclimatization and Dome and Tent lodging in Chile for the climb
- Communications tent with access to satellite phone and email, dispatches of the team progress on our news site
- Emphasis is placed on providing high end logistics, staff, equipment and services to a small team of climbers
- Asados on the trip, acclimatize on the remote Argentina side via comfortable 4×4 access
Ojos is located in the Andes Range on the border of Argentina and Chile, rising 6,893m or 22,615 ft. above sea level, it is the 2nd highest mountain in South America. Mountain Professionals is planning a climb of the Ojos del Salado normal route via Chile, however we have a special program where climbers begin on the Argentina side of the mountain and utilize comfortable 4×4 access to camps in order to do acclimatization trips on the remote and wild side of the mountain prior to the summit climb on the Chilean side.
Ojos del Salado is located on the border of Argentina and Chile, it is remote adventure on a highly sought after peak. Many mountaineers looking at completing climbs of the Seven Volcanoes or other mountain objectives are now focusing on Ojos del Salado as a climbing objective and excellent South American adventure in a relatively short time frame.
Our full service expedition begins in the airport at La Rioja, Argentina. From here we travel via comfortable air conditioned 4×4 with the guide staff to Fiambala for hotel lodging and a visit to the Inca Museum. From there the group travels to Cortaderas at 3,300m / 10,820 ft. for a short hike and evening lodge. The acclimatization begins with a trek up Coquena and Pastos Largos Peak at 4100m / 13,451 ft. taking in views of the dry arid environment. The following mornings drive to Las Grutas provides incredible views of the surrounding 6,000m mountains in the area along the way. Later that day the team will climb up to Falso Morocho Peak for lodging and further acclimatization at 4100m.
The culmination of the Argentina remote acclimatization portion of the program entails an early morning climb of Bertrand Volcano 5350m / 17,552 ft. with views of Incahuasi, Pissis, and the first view of Ojos del Salado! Then it is time to cross over to Chile at the customs crossing and high plateau to Laguna Verde and Murray Camp. Here your guides will make camp with comfortable dining dome complete with table and chairs, plus member sleeping tents for the evening at an altitude of 4,300m / 14,107 ft.
One last excursion to climb Vicuna Peak at an altitude of 6,050m / 19,900 ft. sets the team members up perfectly for the following climb of the actual Ojos del Salado route that consists of a 4 day progression from the Tejos hut to the high camp with a summit climb.
Our philosophy is to approach all mountains with great care, recognizing the hazards involved in climbing high-altitude glaciated peaks. Ojos del Salado is the second highest mountain in the southern and western hemispheres, posing all the risks that come with such an impressive peak. That being said, the normal route on the mountain is accessible due to less objective hazard. The trip is strenuous in nature but accessible to a wide range of experience levels. We plan to utilize a highly experienced staff, top-notch safety and mountain equipment, and slow conservative acclimatization to minimize our risk and provide for a successful climb of Ojos del Salado.
The expedition in 2020 will be organized by Tomas Ceppi. He has in-depth experience leading expeditions to the Andes Range as well as 8,000 -meter mountains including Everest, in Nepal, and Pakistan. Our logistics partners have worked in the expedition business for over a decade as a top logistics organizer and expedition management team. Your guides on Ojos del Salado have experience organizing multiple expeditions to mountains including trips to Manaslu, Everest, K2, Dhaulagiri, Cho Oyu, Broad Peak, Lhotse, Gasherbrum 2, Gasherbrum 1, and several 5000m to 7000m Himalayan mountains.
Our recommendation is for team members to have a solid mountaineering background that involves several trips to high altitude peaks ranging from 4000m to 5500m+ in elevation. Team members should be very comfortable with general mountain climbing skills and living at high camps.
The team will take sufficient time to rest and acclimatize in base camp prior to beginning a conservative climb to the higher camps.
Climbing Ojos del Salado will include long sections of switchbacks, with some short steep steps and a long traverse at 6500m with a short 4 class rock step just before the summit. The route is climbed using harnesses, helmet and general gear, protected by roping up for the final section and managed for safety by the guide staff.
Our goal… to have a safe expedition, have fun, and then to reach the summit of Ojos del Salado, the 2nd highest mountain in South America and one of the Seven Volcanoes summits.
- Day 1: Arrive to La Rioja, Argentina airport. Our staff will meet you outside and transport you to our hotel in the hotel. Team Meeting.
- Day 2:
- Day 3-4: Depart for Skardu via Islamabad to Skardu Domestic Flight.
- Day 5: Skardu day for logistics.
- Day 6: Jeep ride to Askole.
- Day 7-14: Base Camp Trek.
- Day 15-16: Rest days and move into base camp.
- Day 17: Climbing Gasherbrum 2
- Day 40-46: Trek from Base Camp and Return trip to Skardu.
- Days 47-48: Return from Skardu to Islamabad via Domestic Flight.
- Day 49: Backup Reserve Day for Delays.
- Day 50: Return Date to Home Country.
Trip cost includes
- Mountain Professionals American guides.
- Nepali Sherpa and High Altitude Porter Climbing Support.
- Expedition permit.
- Four nights shared accommodation in Islamabad.
- Full board on twin sharing basis on approach to Skardu.
- Full board on twin sharing basis in Skardu.
- Base Camp Trekking guides and porters.
- Meals throughout the Trek, Base Camp, and Mountain.
- All transportation in Pakistan as per itinerary.
- Cooks, kitchen and climbing staff; equipment allowances, daily wages,insurance, and food.
- Dining tent, full kitchen, shower and toilet tents, chairs and tables at BC; Espresso and Coffee, comfortable BC environment and highest quality food.
- Equipment allowances, daily wages, insurance, food and lodging for Liaison Officer and Interpreter.
- Base Camp Wifi via our Thuraya XP+ system
- Personal Base Camp Tent.
- Icefall and all route fixing costs.
- Group climbing equipment, high altitude tents, stove and fuel; high altitude food imported from the United States.
- Weather Reports
- Two way radios and VHF Base Camp to mountain communications; full Base
- Camp satellite phone communication setup.
- Comprehensive medical supplies and Wilderness EMT/First Responders.
- Weather Reports.
- Team Dispatches via Contact 5 Software our website.
Price does not include
- International airfare to and from Islamabad.
- Meals in Islamabad, outside of breakfast.
- Drinks, laundry, postage, telephone calls and all other items of personal nature.
- Pakistan visa, airport departure tax; personal travel.
- Personal climbing clothing and equipment.
- Early departure costs outside our planned itinerary.
- Oxygen and use of mask and regulator (Available on Request).
- Travel/Trip Cancellation and Rescue Insurance (required).
- Single accommodation if requested.
- Staff gratuities for Climbing and Cook Staff.