Denali Climb

12:45 PM: Our team will pick you up from your hotel within 5 miles of downtown Talkeetna and transport you and your gear to the AMS office. We’ll review the expedition, perform a thorough gear check, and prepare for the journey ahead.

We’ll also assist in packing your expedition lunch and securely store all your equipment.

4:00 PM: Organize your personal glacier rig—the essential gear for glacier travel—and review critical crevasse rescue techniques with our expert guides. You’ll also receive guidance on your glacier travel systems.

6:00 PM: The evening is free for you to explore Talkeetna, where most accommodations are within walking distance of the office. Take the time to relax and prepare for the adventure.

8:00 AM: Meet at our office for an official National Park Service Denali briefing. We’ll take a short walk to the NPS Ranger Station to complete all necessary paperwork and gather final information.

9:30 AM: We’ll review and fine-tune your glacier travel skills. You’ll ascend out of a simulated crevasse and practice using Z-pulley hauling systems, key components for Denali’s challenging conditions.

12:30 PM: Enjoy a hearty lunch at our office, prepared to keep you fueled for the challenges ahead.

1:30 PM: Final packing and weighing of all gear for the glacier flight. Once everything is packed and ready, we’ll load up the van for a short drive to the airport.

3:00 PM: Board the flight to Base Camp at 7,200 feet, with a stunning 60-mile flight over glaciers and towering peaks. This is the largest elevation gain of the trip, so take it easy upon arrival and prepare for a solid night of rest.

After a restful night, begin the ascent toward Camp 1. The first day on the mountain is a chance to get accustomed to roped travel and work as a team. The terrain is relatively flat, with notable crevasses that will test your glacier skills. You’ll camp near Ski Hill, where the winds are often blocked, providing a bit of shelter for the night.

Today’s goal is to carry supplies up to Kahiltna Pass, where we’ll establish a cache. This carry will help acclimatize you to the higher elevations while giving you a chance to enjoy panoramic glacier views. Afterward, return to Camp 1 with lighter packs.

Today marks a significant milestone as we push upward to Camp 2. This is a long and physically demanding day. As we gain elevation, you’ll feel the challenges of high-altitude climbing. We’ll establish camp in a wind-protected zone, fortifying our shelter to prepare for potential storms.

Today will feel like a lighter day with a back carry to Kahiltna Pass. This allows us to stretch our legs and continue acclimatizing. At camp, we’ll practice important skills like passing anchors and simulated fixed lines to refine our technique for higher camps.

Today’s goal is Windy Corner, a dramatic feature on the route to the Upper Mountain. The weather here can be fickle, so our carry will help us gauge conditions. If the weather permits, we’ll continue forward; otherwise, we can adjust and cache supplies accordingly.

Arriving at Camp 3 at 14,200 feet signifies a significant transition. You’ll feel the shift in the landscape as the mountain begins to open up around you. From here, the imposing south face of Denali rises above, offering dramatic views. This will be our home for a few days as we rest and prepare for the push higher.

This is a lighter day with a back carry to 13,500 feet, giving you a chance to rest and replenish. We’ll enjoy a well-earned breakfast and take time to hone our techniques for the more challenging sections ahead.

Today we’ll make a carry to 16,200 feet, preparing for our high camp. This is a crucial step in ensuring we’re ready for the final push to the summit.

Depending on weather conditions and the team’s strength, we may take this day as a rest day or continue the push to 17,200 feet (5,243m). Acclimatization is key as we prepare for the summit.

Arriving at Camp 4 at 17,200 feet offers one of the best views on the mountain, with sweeping vistas of Peter’s Glacier far below. This is a critical point in the ascent, and we’ll build a secure, protected camp here in anticipation of the summit push.

Most climbers need this rest day to fully acclimatize before the summit attempt. This is also a weather contingency day, giving us flexibility if conditions change.

Summit day requires determination and mental strength. The summit push typically takes 10-12 hours of strenuous climbing, with the added challenge of altitude and weather conditions. We’ll aim for the West Summit of Denali, standing at 20,310 feet, but will remain flexible depending on conditions and team strength.

After summiting, we’ll begin our descent back to Camp 3 at 14,200 feet, feeling the weight of the climb but buoyed by the accomplishment. A restful night awaits at this camp.

Today, we’ll complete the long descent back to Base Camp. The day will start with a leisurely brunch and some time to rest before descending to the base camp, arriving around 4 AM. We’ll bivy briefly before our flight out.

First flight back to Talkeetna. Once we land, we’ll have time to relax, store luggage, and enjoy fresh fruit and snacks. We’ll assist with any post-expedition travel or lodging arrangements before sending you on your way.